An Epic Portuguese Summer

Boa Noite ๐ŸŒŸ As the cooler weather starts to settle in here, this is the first time in a long time I haven't been quite ready for fall... summer in Portugal was just too good ๐Ÿ˜ And so, I dedicate this epicly long, overdue post to our first Portuguese summer - the one where we fell in love with this side of the Atlantic ๐Ÿ’™

On the cliffs of Ericeira

June //

We spent the first part of June settling into our new apartment and made possibly the best decision since choosing to move to Portugal - joining a run club meet up ๐Ÿ˜Š So most of June was spent running, making new friends, and exploring more of Lisbon.

My favorite flower in Portugal, the Bougainvillea

Algarve

Towards the middle of June we took the train to the Algarve to meet our very first visitor, Justin's dad! We were able to celebrate Father's Day together with dinner overlooking the ocean, and got to show him around our favorite Algarve spots. We had a bit of cloudy weather while there but we made the most of it by hiking the seven hanging valleys trail from Benagil to Marinha beach. The views of Marinha from the hike were absolutely breathtaking!

His dad and I dipped our toes into the water at Marinha and it was freeeezing! So when we went paddle boarding the next day I was hoping to not fall in haha. Luckily I didn't, but Justin did ๐Ÿ˜‚ He was trying to show off before we got more instructions on how to stand up of course. We chose the sunrise tour to have less people in Benagil Cave which worked out well, especially since we were staying nearby.

Justin and I also got to explore the beaches near Portimรฃo, Praia dos Trรชs Castelos is stunning with even more sandstone rocks sprinkled on the beach than Marinha. Although this area can be pretty busy, but I think it's for good reason! The boardwalk in Portimรฃo is always fun to walk too with lots of restaurants and bars, and great views of the beach.

Of course we had to take his dad to Lagos as well, but all I got was a sunset pic from Ponta Piedade.

Back to Lisbon

From the Algarve we took the train back to Lisbon, with the first stop being our favorite miradouro at the castle. We think it's a great introduction to the city, it's a short walk from our apartment through the winding streets of Alfama up the hill to the castle walls.

Sintra

Not only did we get to celebrate Father's Day in person, but it was also his dad's birthday! So we spent the day showing him Sintra, mainly hiking to the Castle of the Moors. The steep trail weaved through the village before turning into a wooded, cobblestone path. There was someone sitting on a rock playing the flute that made me think of Zelda haha. It was so green and beautiful along the path, and thankfully shaded since it was a super hot day which is pretty unusual for Sintra.

We're going to the top!

On a clear day from the Castle of the Moors you can see all the way to Lisbon in the distance. It's also a great view of Pena Palace on the other side. I definitely recommend the hike to the castle and then walking the short path to Pena Palace that connects the two.

We lucked out with a gorgeous day!

To cap off his dad's birthday we did a sunset cruise along the Tejo. It was the perfect way to end the day, the vinho verde was flowing and the views of Lisbon from the river were beautiful.

Tower of Belem at sunset

Another great way to see Lisbon is to cycle the riverfront! We had a fun afternoon biking along the river to see the Tower of Belem during the day.

Douro Valley

We then made our way to our next stop... the beautiful Douro Valley and our first introduction to Northern Portugal. The Douro starts about an hour east of Porto, and continue along the Douro River all the way to Spain. It's quite a large area so hard to see all in one go, we chose to stay in Peso da Rรฉgua based on which quintas we wanted to visit. A quinta in Portuguese is a winery, usually with rooms to stay as well.
 

A word of warning for the Douro though... make sure the road you are on is a road and not a walking path ๐Ÿ˜‚ I can laugh about it now but this was quite a tight fit for our rental car! We ended up taking a wrong turn and driving up a path we thought was the driveway to our airbnb... basically it ended with the airbnb host having to back the car out for us. Thankfully he was there to save us! It was a sheer cliff on one side. I have to say, Europeans seem like better drivers to me since they have to maneuver cars in all these compact spaces.

Back to the main thing on the agenda in the Douro... drinking that vinho! I could've sat in this quinta's restaurant all day, the setting was so beautiful and peaceful.


I'm not sure the wine maker who hosted our tasting was impressed by us though ๐Ÿ˜… He was so descriptive and poetic about his wine. He would ask us what each wine smelled like, and we might say something like "citrus-y?" then he would correct us and say "more like the scent of an unripened orange tree" or "the smell of rain hitting rocks". It's funny when he said it I would think it was true, but maybe it was the 10 glasses of wine haha. Safe to say we were not wine experts in his book or ours! So we played in the vineyard instead... ๐Ÿ˜‰


Also as mentioned before, driving in the Douro is quite the adventure, very winding roads that follow the river. I was thankful Justin's dad was driving and also so I could enjoy the views!


Porto

It was time to see Portugal's second largest city... Porto! We loved the view of the city from across the bridge in Vila Nova de Gaia where we stayed.

After exploring the city for a bit it was time to get back out into nature, so we all went canyoning about an hour outside Porto. It was Justin's and my first time so I was a bit nervous and my uneasiness with heights was creeping in on me... luckily it was all ok! I actually really enjoyed it but it was a long day out.

Way up high!

We started out by hiking down into the canyon which was hot wearing our wet suits and gear already. Once down in the river we got a safety briefing and it was time for the first rappel. I think we did about 5 rappels total along with some cliff jumps mixed in!

Justin rappelling

Me rappelling

The rappels were really beautiful, each alongside different waterfalls. However the water made the rocks slippery, so we had to be careful with our footing. In between rappels and cliff jumps you are climbing over rocks in the river bed, stepping into holes of unknown depth. Even swimming sections of it which was really nice for cooling off!

Somewhere down a river

Justin's dad after a cliff jump!

 Canyoning was a great way to see a different side to the North, outside of the city and the popular destinations like the Douro. The canyon was absolutely gorgeous and it's one of those activities where you're fully present in the moment the entire time, which I really enjoyed.

July //

Back in Porto and we gained another visitor... Chris! Chris flew in for the week wanting to see a mix of Porto and Lisbon. We kicked off our combination of visitors with a segway tour around Porto to explore more of the city.

 
It was a fun tour but quite long for a segway tour at 2 hours... and I had a little mishap where I sort of fell off of mine (...twice) ๐Ÿ˜… What is that saying, "do as I say not as I do", trust me the segways are really fun it's probably more my lack of coordination haha.
 

It was a great way to see Porto though, you end up covering more ground than you would walking and Porto is more spread out than it initially seems. There's kind of two sides to Porto to me, the touristy riverfront and then the actual city that starts behind all of that.


For our last day in Porto we were going to take Chris to the Douro for the day, but we all decided we'd rather explore the city more. I still felt like we hadn't had a lot of time to do so and after the segway tour we wanted to check out more of those spots in person (aka without the segway).

View from the clock tower

An aperol spritz break

We enjoyed seeing Porto, and it was a beautiful city. But let's just say it wasn't Lisbon, we are a bit biased at this point! I also think I expected it to feel a lot smaller and quaint, but to me it still felt like a bigger city (though not as big as Lisbon). I only bring it up because Justin and I rode the sky car and the first thing the lady asked us as the bottom was "which do you like better, Porto or Lisbon?" Let's just say I gave a politically correct answer don't worry ๐Ÿ˜Š

My favorite photo we took of Porto

Back to Lisbon

It was time to show Chris around Lisbon, so we hopped on the train back south. Side note, I love riding the trains here! It's the most relaxing way to travel in my opinion. Anyway... one of the first stops in Lisbon had to be... GINJA!

We had a great time exploring Lisbon.... rooftop bars, botanical bars, miradouro bars, and of course seeing the highlights of the city.


Riding the tram

Chris's last day was the hottest day we've had so far this summer in Lisbon, even sitting outside in the shade was almost too much for all of us. But we managed to get to a miradouro for sunset on his night, the highest point in the city!

Ericeira + Praia do Meco

The rest of July was spent catching up on work, and taking a couple day trips on the weekends. Ericeira is the ultimate summer day trip from Lisbon... it's a really cute surf town with nice beaches and a gorgeous coastline. We visited two weekends in a row because we loved it so much (and because we forgot the camera the first time haha).


Ericeira has the black rock cliffs similar to the western Algarve, and there is one section north of the beach where you can walk out on them. The locals even had tables set up on the rocks playing cards. It was an interesting mix of natural rock and man made additions like the bench we were sitting on for the photo.

Another favorite spot we've found is on the other side of the bridge on the southern end of Costa da Caparica, where the 30km beach turns into Praia do Meco. 
 

Praia do Meco is really unique with a sandstone cliff overlooking the beach. Near the parking lot you can walk up the steep slope to the top of the cliff where you get some amazing views!

For the last day of July we got to cruise the Tejo again with some of our running club friends. It was such a fun day out on the water! A few of us even jumped in but let me warn you... the water is cold! But very refreshing ๐Ÿ’ฆ


August //

We spent a good chunk of this month flying home to sell our condo back in the states, and officially becoming true nomads. It was a whirlwind visit seeing family and also moving all of our stuff to a storage unit. Very thankful for all the time with everyone we were missing so badly though! More on this at the end of the blog post.

Early September //

Algarve

September began in the best way possible, back in the Algarve but this time with Brandon and Brittany! We kicked off Justin's birthday with brunch and a visit to our favorite beach there, Praia da Marinha of course. All four of us are beach lovers so it was a fun afternoon just chilling on the beach drinking sagres!

How good was the weather on this trip? I've decided September seems to be the best time to visit the Algarve... warm weather and even the water felt so good to swim in! Although we aren't alone in that opinion, it was pretty busy at all the beaches we went to but it was fun to experience the Algarve getting back to its normal, post pandemic times.

After Marinha we hit the cave bar we discovered back in May, and after a couple pitches of sangria the boys did some cliff jumping in the grotto!

Afterwards we celebrated with dinner in Portimรฃo, then a night cap at a bar built into the cliff. You have to take a elevator down to the bar which was pretty neat. Safe to say Justin had an epic birthday!

Our second day in the Algarve we spent in Lagos exploring the town and the beaches of Ponta Piedade. Simply stunning all around... I will never get over the color of the water against the sandstone cliffs ๐Ÿ˜

Spritzing ourselves ๐Ÿงก

For the last morning in the Algarve we got to do the sunrise paddleboarding at Benagil again, it was a fun morning.

 Lisbon

Back to Lisbon! We headed to the castle first with Brandon and Brittany for the best view ๐Ÿ˜Š

Then it was ginja time! And exploring Lisbon ๐Ÿ’›

Secret rooftop bar among the Bougainvillea

 And of course, Sintra! We opted for taking a jeep up to Pena Palace to kickstart the day.

The weather was really neat this day, it was cloudy and rainy and then switched over to being blue skies. So we got to see it misty and clear, the best of both worlds I think! Sintra looks good when the weather is moody.

From Pena Palace we headed to Quinta da Regaleira, a private 20th century palace and gardens. This was a new stop for Justin and I so we were really excited to see it. The most popular part is the initiation well, noone really knows why it was built though. Some theorize it symbolizes going from heaven to hell, then walking through the tunnel as a sort of rebirth. Either way, it's wild to me to think all of this was built for someone's private gardens. I mean the parties here must've been pretty amazing back in the day?! haha. That's all I could think about walking through it.

 

The garden is full of winding paths and secret short cuts through the trees or caves. It really is beautiful to walk through. It's like the secret garden ๐Ÿ˜Š

These rocks are so wild looking to me

It was such a great visit with B&B!


Fall/Winter Plans, Nomadic Life

Now that summer has come to an end, we've been trying to figure out our plans. The only thing that's for sure right now is we'll be at this apartment in Lisbon until the end of November. From that point on the plan has changed many times haha. Since we can be flexible we've decided to wait to book things as long as we can to see what border announcements come. We will likely travel around Europe a bit in December and then *hopefully* head to the Southern hemisphere towards the end of the year... but that's a big question mark right now.

On that note, we're embracing the nomadic life for now! We sold our place back home so for the first time ever we are traveling around without a home base. Our apartment here in Lisbon is starting to feel like home, so now I'm kind of sad about leaving it so soon. The time in Lisbon has really flown by, but after writing this blog post I think I understand why now ๐Ÿ˜‚ This "trip" has become much more than just that, Lisbon has been an incredible city to live in and we're already planning on coming back in the Spring. After a visit back to the US of course. In the meantime we will see where this adventure takes us, and I'm learning to embrace the unknown!

๐Ÿ’œ

Sarah

"This is the journey of the soul, it's the adventure of me
No matter what I'm told, I know that I am free
To roam my own way, to flow in my own sea
To chase my own dreams on this adventure of me"
~ "The Adventure of Me", Rob Riccardo